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In Good Bread Is Back, historian and leading French bread expert Steven Laurence Kaplan takes readers into aromatic Parisian bakeries as he explains how good bread began to reappear in France in the 1990s, following almost a century of decline in quality. Kaplan describes how, while bread comprised the bulk of the French diet during the eighteenth century, by the twentieth, per capita consumption had dropped off precipitously. This was largely due to social and economic modernization and the availability of a wider choice of foods. But part of the problem was that the bread did not taste good. In a culture in which bread is sacrosanct, bad bread was more than a gastronomical disappointment; it was a threat to France's sense of itself. By the mid-1990s bakers rallied, and bread officially designated as "bread of the French tradition" was in demand throughout Paris. Kaplan meticulously describes good bread's ideal crust and crumb (interior), mouth feel, aroma, and taste. He discusses the breadmaking process in extraordinary detail, from the ingredients to the kneading, shaping, and baking, and even the sound bread should make when it comes out of the oven. Kaplan does more than tell the story of the revival of good bread in France. He makes the reader see, smell, taste, feel, and even hear why it is so very wonderful that good bread is back.
- Sales Rank: #2147688 in Books
- Published on: 2015-02-16
- Original language: English
- Number of items: 1
- Dimensions: 9.00" h x .90" w x 6.10" l, .0 pounds
- Binding: Paperback
- 384 pages
Review
“Good Bread Is Back will become the canonical book on 20th century French baking, not only in English but in French too.” (The Fresh Loaf)
“[F]or anyone with a broad interest in bread, the book is an excellent and comprehensive look at the product and how it has shaped, and been shaped by, French society.” (Bakers Journal)
“[Kaplan is] not just the leading authority on French bread but the conscience of French baking—a conscience that does not hesitate to tug. . . . Good Bread is Back [is] a punchy, compendious account of how French baking returned to its artisanal roots and sparked a revival in quality crusts.” (Michael Steinberger, Financial Times)
“[T]his is very much a bread nerd's book. . . . It is a fascinating story, and Kaplan is the person to tell it.” (David Auerbach, The Independent Weekly)
“A good baguette is as integral a part of French cultural heritage as Paris and Lacan, and this beautiful book forms a fitting tribute, researched, written and illustrated with finesse.” (French Book News)
“Professor Kaplan’s new book is a tasty meditation on the many pleasures of good bread, wrapped in an object lesson on the evolution of artisanal production. Many readers who do not share the author’s passion for the technical aspects of breadmaking will nonetheless be impressed by it. And anyone who has ever stood in a French bakery savoring the scent and admiring the array of delectable brown loaves will be heartened by his optimistic conclusion that good bread will always drive out bad. It is, as Kaplan might say, a delicious book with a beautifully gilded crust and a pearly, chewy crumb.” (Steve Zdatny, H-France, H-Net Reviews)
“Steven Laurence Kaplan raises powerfully important questions about the proper scale for an economy—about how big is too big, and how small is impractical—that go well beyond both France and bread. Indeed, Kaplan’s book spurs thought about what a postmodern economy might look like, and whether it might be possible for it to deliver satisfaction instead of simply piles of stuff.” (Bill McKibben, Books & Culture)
“Students of French history and food will find [Good Bread is Back] completely absorbing and it should be required reading for any professional.” (Library Journal)
“Throughout this work, Kaplan powerfully demonstrates the symbolic charge of bread as it is ‘’deeply bound up with the basic values of sociability and well-being, with sacred and secular in communion’ (304). . . . Kaplan reminds us through bread, that bread sums up the human experience.” (Samuel Snyder, Journal of Agricultural and Environmental Ethics)
"[A] book every serious American bread enthusiast ought to read. . . . A good storyteller, Kaplan describes his large cast of characters in sharp detail, with numerous protagonists and antagonists, and does a fine job of capturing the center of good in each of them." (Peter Reinhart, Gastronomica)
"A magnificent combination of polemic and scholarship, it asks how the superlative French bread of the eighteenth, nineteenth, and early twentieth centuries gave way to the disappointing industrial loaves of the 1960s onwards; and how these in turn, have been happily supplanted by a new generation of artisananal baguettes, batards and boules." (Bee Wilson, Times Literary Supplement)
“Good Bread Is Back is a fascinating book that sums up the history of bread baking in France over the past several centuries. The author does it lovingly in a style that will move you to repair to your kitchen and oven to make bread that ‘sings’ as the golden yellow crust crackles as it cools, and a bite of it does not melt in the mouth right away but reveals the force of its taste only gradually as you chew. It is a welcome addition to the libraries of those seriously into breadmaking who wish a deeper understanding of the why and wherefore of their own French bread recipes.” (Bernard Clayton Jr., author of Bernard Clayton’s New Complete Book of Breads)
“Like its subject matter, this book is a delicious and irresistible labor of love. Steven Laurence Kaplan has distilled his vast knowledge of France and French bread into a delightfully readable story that is also a brilliant, illuminating model of how to write contemporary social history.” (David A. Bell, Andrew W. Mellon Professor in the Humanities, Johns Hopkins University)
“You will never look at a French baguette in the same way again. Chock full of delicious details about every aspect of breadmaking, prepared with verve and loving devotion by a master of his craft, this book has something to appeal to every reader. Bread will never again seem a simple food; Steven Laurence Kaplan uses it to open up the deepest secrets of French life in the modern world.” (Lynn Hunt, coauthor of Liberty, Equality, Fraternity: Exploring the French Revolution)
From the Back Cover
"Like its subject matter, this book is a delicious and irresistible labor of love. Steven Laurence Kaplan has distilled his vast knowledge of France and French bread into a delightfully readable story that is also a brilliant, illuminating model of how to write contemporary social history."--David A. Bell, Andrew W. Mellon Professor in the Humanities, Johns Hopkins University
About the Author
Steven Laurence Kaplan is the Goldwin Smith Professor of European History at Cornell University. He is the author of The Bakers of Paris and the Bread Question, 1770-1775, also published by Duke University Press.
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Most helpful customer reviews
10 of 12 people found the following review helpful.
One of the greatest books on french bread ever written
By Appliance & Kitchen Fan
I've just downloaded this to the free pc kindle reader provided by amazon, and I'm reading the first chapter.
This is THE BOOK I've been waiting for. This is the history of French bread, it's for people like my husband and I who have been trying to perfect the perfect baguette for years. Literally YEARS. I have looked at Raymond Calvel's The Taste of Bread on google books, but you can't read the entire thing on it, so this may possibly be my next purchase after the Kaplan book.
If you are into the history of the baguette and want to know how baguettes caused, yes CAUSED the French Revolution then this is your book. I am also interested in how the French reacted during WW2 when they were forced to use inferior German flour instead of French flour and were making, once again, terrible baguettes. I have heard that the French were very depressed about the state of the baguette during that period and that the art of making baguettes was lost....
Some people to THIS DAY state that the taste of baguettes went downhill after the war, that the bakers no longer made the great bread that they had made before the war. Mr. Calvel and subsequently Mr. Kaplan set out to try and reverse this. Raymond Calvel worked diligently to bring back the recipes and the ways that the French had used before the entire horrible episode of WW2.
Raymond Calvel was also Julia Child's teacher at the Cordon Bleu, and he was one of the inspirations for Mr. Kaplan and this book. Mr. Kaplan is an incredible treasure, a bread historian...who is very respected in France (!) though he is American.
2 of 3 people found the following review helpful.
Before it is good to eat, it has to be good to think!
By tommylebaker
Every prime minister should read this book! Respect fermentation! Respect humanity! Totally enjoyed the social history of bread and a country.
6 of 10 people found the following review helpful.
Bad writing about good bread
By Richard
I was really excited when I stumbled upon this book. I bake bread (naturally leavened sourdough) in my kitchen and have become increasingly interested in the history.
This book was very disappointing. While seemingly well researched with interesting quotes and facts at times, it's painfully intellectual and meandering, and I had a hard time telling where the author was going in the parts I was able to read. The author should consider that a similar renaissance to the bread he loves is required in how people write history - history is a STORY, and usually it can be a really incredible story with the right writer. But reading this overwhelmed me with a stuffy, university dullness that didn't evoke any of the feelings of a complex history, or the current food renaissance that is taking place. The topic of the industrialization of our food, in particular in the country with one of the richest and most varied traditions (France), is too important to not be taken up by another more capable author.
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